How to Spot Pool Balls: WPA Rules for Re-Spotting

Why Knowing the Spots Matters in Competitive Pool

I have watched more arguments at league nights start over spotting balls than any other rule issue except ball-in-hand placement. Someone makes a ball illegally, the opponent says it has to be re-spotted, and nobody in the room is sure exactly where 'the spot' is or which ball goes there. Fifteen years of league play has taught me that understanding the spots and the re-spotting rules is basic literacy, it shows your opponents you know what you are doing.

A pool table has three reference spots: the foot spot, the head spot, and the center spot. These are not just aesthetic markings. The foot spot determines rack placement. The head spot determines where the break happens. The center spot matters for certain game formats and re-spotting rules. WPA and BCA rules specify which spot a ball goes on under every foul scenario, and those rules vary between 8-ball, 9-ball, 10-ball, and other games.

This guide walks through each spot, the WPA re-spotting rules, and the specific differences between common games. Bookmark this one, it is the kind of reference you pull out when a rules dispute breaks out mid-match.

The Foot Spot, Where the Rack Lives

The foot spot is located at the foot end of the table, in line with the second diamond from the foot rail on both side rails, measured along the length of the table. On most tables there is a small dot marking this spot. This is where the apex ball of the rack, the one ball in 9-ball, the front ball in 8-ball, is placed when racking.

The foot spot is also the default re-spot location in most games. When a ball is pocketed illegally and needs to be placed back on the table, it typically goes on the foot spot. If the foot spot is occupied, the ball is placed as close to the foot spot as possible on the long string, which is the imaginary line running from the foot spot to the foot rail.

On newer tables the foot spot may not have a visible dot if the cloth has not been marked. This is increasingly common in home tables. If you cannot see the foot spot, find it by measuring from the foot rail, it is at one quarter of the table's length from the foot end, exactly on the centerline between the side rails. Mark it with a pencil dot on the cloth if you need to reference it regularly.

The Head Spot and the Head String

The head spot is located at the head end of the table, exactly symmetrical to the foot spot. It sits on the centerline between the side rails, at one quarter of the table's length from the head rail. On most tables it is not marked as prominently as the foot spot, since the head spot is used less often in standard game play.

The head string is the imaginary line running across the table through the head spot, perpendicular to the long rails. The head string defines the area where the cue ball is placed after certain fouls. In 8-ball, after a scratch or foul by the opponent, the cue ball is placed behind the head string, meaning between the head string and the head rail.

In 9-ball under WPA rules, the incoming player after a scratch gets cue ball in hand anywhere on the table, there is no head string restriction. But in 8-ball, many rule sets still require the cue ball to be placed behind the head string after a scratch. Know the rule set for your league or bar, because this one detail affects strategy more than most players realize.

The Center Spot, The Middle of the Table

The center spot sits exactly in the middle of the playing surface, equidistant from all four rails. It is rarely marked on the cloth, but it matters in certain games and re-spotting situations. In some forms of straight pool and one-pocket, the center spot is a reference for ball placement. In standard 8-ball and 9-ball, the center spot is usually only relevant when the foot spot and long string are occupied and a ball needs to be placed further up the table.

If a re-spotted ball cannot be placed on the foot spot or along the long string toward the foot rail (because balls are in the way), WPA rules say the ball is placed on the long string toward the head of the table, as close to the foot spot as possible. If the entire long string from foot to head is blocked, the ball goes on the center spot.

This layered priority, foot spot first, long string toward foot rail second, long string toward head rail third, center spot last, is worth memorizing. Most amateurs just put the ball 'in the middle somewhere' and hope nobody objects. Doing it right takes two seconds and saves arguments.

8-Ball Re-Spotting Rules

In 8-ball, the most common re-spotting scenario is an illegally pocketed 8-ball before the match is legally won. Under WPA rules, the 8-ball is typically re-spotted on the foot spot if pocketed on the break. If the 8-ball is pocketed during normal play on a foul, some rule sets treat this as a loss of game rather than a re-spot, so the situation rarely comes up.

Object balls (the numbered balls in your group) that are pocketed on a foul are not re-spotted in standard 8-ball. The made balls stay made, the penalty is loss of turn and ball in hand for the opponent. This is different from 9-ball and 10-ball, where illegally pocketed object balls are typically re-spotted. 8-ball has simpler re-spotting rules overall.

On the break specifically, a pocketed 8-ball can either be re-spotted or result in a loss depending on the rule set. BCA rules typically re-spot the 8 on the foot spot and continue play. APA rules may give the breaker the choice of continuing or re-racking. WPA world standardized rules respot. Always confirm the specific ruleset before your match, because the consequence of an 8-on-break is game-changing.

9-Ball and 10-Ball Re-Spotting Rules

In 9-ball, the 9 is the money ball, and it gets re-spotted whenever it is pocketed illegally. The most common case is a scratch on a shot where the 9 also goes in, the 9 is re-spotted on the foot spot and the incoming player gets ball in hand. Object balls (1 through 8) pocketed on a foul are also re-spotted under WPA rules, which is a significant difference from 8-ball.

The priority for placing a re-spotted ball in 9-ball follows the standard rule: foot spot first, long string toward foot rail if the foot spot is blocked, long string toward head rail if still blocked, and center spot as a last resort. If multiple balls need to be re-spotted at once, they are placed in numerical order down the long string from the foot spot.

10-ball follows the same re-spotting rules as 9-ball. The 10 is the money ball and is re-spotted on the foot spot after illegal pocketing. The 1 through 9 are re-spotted the same way as 9-ball object balls. Both games use the pro-style rack with a specific ball on the foot spot in the center (the 9 in 9-ball, the 10 in 10-ball). Consistency across these games makes them easy to switch between.

Common Re-Spotting Mistakes

The most common mistake is placing a re-spotted ball anywhere that feels reasonable rather than on the foot spot specifically. I have seen players drop a re-spotted 9-ball halfway between the foot spot and the side rail because 'that looked close enough.' That is not legal. The ball goes on the foot spot or as close as possible along the long string toward the foot rail.

The second mistake is forgetting that re-spotting rules differ between games. In 8-ball, object balls pocketed on a foul stay pocketed. In 9-ball, they get re-spotted. Knowing which game you are playing and applying the correct rule matters, in a money match, re-spotting incorrectly can lose you the game on a technicality.

The third mistake is not knowing what to do when the foot spot is occupied. The correct move is to place the ball on the long string as close to the foot spot as possible, toward the foot rail. If the string toward the foot rail is blocked, go the other direction toward the head rail. If the entire long string is blocked, use the center spot. Memorize this sequence and you will never have a rules argument about spotting.